Interlining fabric



Jan. 9, 1940. L.. BIHALY INTERLINING FABRIC Filed July 2, 19,38 [a l.

4 1 NYM v wv v v v v Patented Jan. 9, 1940 UNirED STATES INTERLINING FABRIC Ludwig Bihaly, London, England, assignor to Trubenizing Process Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application .'luly 2, 1938, Serial No. 217,181 In Germany August 31, 1937 Claims.

This invention relates', to an interlining for use in the manufacture of chemically stifiened launderable articles of wearing apparel, such as collars and cuffs, having a predetermined fold line.

1 5 The invention is applicable particularly to the manufacture of such articles consisting of several plies of fabric, generally three, of which at least one, usually the interlining, contains threads of a latently adhesive substance, for example, a cellulose derivative such as cellulose acetate.

The adhesive properties of these yarns are developed by treatment with a suitable solvent and the plies are permanently united by the application of pressure, or pressure and heat, to form a somewhat stiened but easily launderable composite fabric which is preferably pervious to air and water.

It has been found that it is undesirable to stiffen the article along and in the vicinity of the fold line. Various proposals have been made to avoid such stiifening of the fold line. For example, it has been proposed to omit the yarns` of latently adhesive material in the region of the fold line. It has also been suggestedto cover the yarns with a strip of paper or other material at the fold line zone to prevent adhesion. It has further been proposed to break ,the adhesion along the fold line by the introduction of a probe. One of the objects of my invention is to provide an inter-lining in which the latently adhesive l yarns are so arranged that they will cause adhesion along the fold line zone of only one of the outer plies and thus avoid undue stiifening of the article at and in the vicinity of the fold line.

A further object of`the Iinvention is to provide an interlining in which the latently. adhesive yarns are arranged to produce a fold line of predetermined curvature.

The interlining made in accordance with this invention is characterized by the fact that along the fold line zone the latently adhesive yarns are disposed wholly or substantially on one side only of the fabric. A fabric of this character is easier to weave than is one where the latently adhesive yarns are omitted at the fold line'. Furthermore, the use of my interiining avoids the necessity, and the added expense, of any shielding or probing operation to avoid adhesion at the fold line.

Further objects and advantages of the invention will appear from the following description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figure l is 1.-; :fn tic plan viewofapiece `55 of the intera fabric showing the .position of (Cl. 13S-385.5)

the fold lines in dot and dash lines, and the manner of cutting a plurality of collar linings from the piece in dotted lines;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a piece of the interlining showing the arrangement of the weave in 5 the vicinity of the fold line;

Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view of the interlining, on an enlarged scale, taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2, interposed between two outer plies;

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic plan View showing 10 the stepped block weave of the latently adhesive warp yarns at the fold line zone; and

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic plan view of a modification of the interlining wherein the latently adhesive yarns are woven in the weft. 15

Referring now to Figure 1, l indicates a piece of interlining fabric for use in the manufacture of a three ply fusedcollar of the fold over type. The fold lines are indicated by the dot and dash lines 2, and the shape of the individual collar 20 linings into which the fabric is cut are represented by the reference character 3.

Fig; 2 shows a weave of the fabric illustrated in Figure 1 at or about the fold line. The weave construction consists of latently adhesive warp 25 threads 4, non-adhesive warp threads 5, and non-adhesive ller threads i. The Warp threads 4 are preferably cellulose acetate threads of 250 denier and counting about 40 to the inch. The non-adhesive warp threads 5 preferably consist 30 of #50 cotton thread woven about 80 to the inch. In other words, the warp contains about twice as many cotton threads as acetate, every third warp thread being of acetate. The llerA threads 6 consist entirely of cotton or other non- 35 adhesive material, preferably #30 cotton threads woven about 90 to 100 per inch.

In the construction of the interlinng, the warp threads 4 and 5 are interwoven with the filler threads 6 in the normal manner, that is, 40

alternately crossing over and under one another, except that in the region of the fold line each of the warp threads 4 has a portion 4a that floats over a plurality of filler threads 6. On referring to Fig. 2, it will be noted that in the example shown, each warp thread portion la oats over nine ller threads, thus producing a strip of approximately one-tenth of an Vinch wide which containsvthe latently adhesive threads on one side only. It is to be understood that the number of the filler threads over which the ace- CII v tate warp threads oat may be appreciably increased.

The iioating of the acetate warp threads 6 is arranged in blocks extending across the width of the interlining material I, which blocks or areas are indicated diagrammatically in Fig. 4 by the reference character 1. It will be noted that these blocks are arranged in step-like order and follow the general curvature of the line 8 corresponding to the fold line 2. A Jacquard loom is preferably used in weaving the curved fold line. If it is desired to form a straight fold line, as, for example, in weaving a lining for use in cus, then the weaving may be done on an ordinary loom.

Fig. 5 shows a modication of the invention in which the acetate yarns are woven in the weft and have portions that float over the warp threads instead of floating over the filler threads,

-and thus produce a construction in which the Heating portions of the warp threads are arranged in block-like formations 9 that extend lengthwise of the fabric and follow the general curvature of the line 8 corresponding to the fold line. In this instance, the blocks 9 are separated from each other by narrow spaces of about three to four filler thread widths.

In Fig. 3 the interlining l is shown interposed between two outer plies I0 and Il of ordinary fabric. It will be seen from this iigure that the outer ply I0 only will adhere to the interlining in the region of the fold line and that no adhesion will be effected between the second outer ply ll and the interlining in that region, thus reducing the stiffness and increasing the flexibility of the composite fabric along the fold line zone.

I claim:

1. An interlining fabric having a predetermined fold zone, comprising a fabric woven of warp and weft yarns of non-adhesive material, said fabric including yarns of latently adhesive material that are interwoven with the yarns of non-adhesive material in the -areas above and below the fold zone but are not interwoven therewith in the area of the fold zone, said yarns of latently adhesive material arranged to float over the yarns of the non-adhesive material on one surface only of the fabric in the area of the fold zone.

2. An interlining fabric having a predetermined fold zone, comprising yarns of latently adhesive material and yarns of non-adhesive material running in one direction and interwoven with yarns of non-adhesive material running in a crosswise direction, the yarns being interwoven in the areas above and below the fold zone and the yarns of latently adhesive material arranged to float over the yarns of the non-adhesive material on one surface only of the fabric in the area of the fold zone.

3. An interlining fabric having a predetermined fold zone, comprising yarns of cellulose derivative and yarns of cotton running in one direction and interwoven with cotton yarns running in a crosswise direction, the yarns being interwoven'in the areas above and below the fold zone and the cellulose derivative yarns arranged to oat over the cotton yarns on one surface only of the fabric in the area of the fold zone.

4. An interlining fabric having a predetermined vcurved fold zone, .comprising a fabric Woven of yarns of latently adhesive material and yarns of non-adhesive material, the yarnsbeing interwoven in the areas above and below the fold zone, the yarns of the latently adhesive material arranged to float over the yarns of the non-adhesive material on one surface only of the fabric in the curved fold zone area.

5. An interlining fabric having a predetermined curved fold zone, comprising a fabric woven of yarns of latently adhesive material and yarns of non-adhesive material. the yarns being interwoven in the areas above and below the fold zone, the yarns of the latently adhesive material arranged to oat over the yarns of the noir-adhesive material on one surface only of the fabric in a predetermined zone, the floating portions of the latently adhesive yarns being formed in a series of stepped blocks arranged along a curv'ed g line corresponding substantially to the curvature of the fold zone.

LUDWIG BIHALY. 

